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Spool3D Voron 2.4 350mm Kit

Martin Heath

The Voron 3D printer is designed to be a reliable, fast and quiet micro manufacturing machine. It is over-engineered to the max to produce a DIY build experience that, so far, has been a joy to assemble and fuss over the tiny details.

In this gallery I will describe in photos how the process is going and what challenges I’ve faced during the build.

This is a stock photo of what my Voron will look like when finished.
Everything from Spool3D.ca arrived nicely packaged and well protected.
The kit included genuine Hiwin linear rails, Misumi aluminum extrusions and LDO stepper motors.
The High Flow Phaetus Dragon hotend will help with extremely high speed printing.
A flat build surface is essential for assembling and squaring up the frame. I used a piece of countertop cut out for a double kitchen sink.
This was the frame completely assembled. It was about 30 seconds after this picture that I realized I didn’t use thread locker on any of the screws so I had to disassemble and reassembly it. DOH!
Re-assembling and squaring up the frame. Thanks Frank Brewing Co. for brewing such a wonderful dark beer. Perfect for building printers!
Frame assembled, squared and THREAD LOCKER applied!
Threaded inserts are added throughout the printed parts for better fastener connection. I used a cheap soldering iron to heat them up and place them in the printed part before pressing them in to place with a 1-2-3 block.
Beginning assembly of the Z axis drive units. These will control each corner of the XY axis gantry along the Z axis, allowing for precision leveling to the build plate.
Z motion drives complete and ready to be mounted to the frame!
Z motion drives mounted to the frame. They also double as the printer’s feet. I also mounted the lower acrylic panel which separates the build chamber from the electronics below. Hiwin rails mounted and centered as well.
Beginning assembly of the XY gantry motion parts.
Gantry drive units assembled! These will move the X and Y axis while the end pieces serve as belt tensioners.
Well, that’s annoying. Turns out the heat inserts are a little too long (not the same spec as the official BOM). Nothing ten minutes and a diamond file couldn’t fix.
Gantry drive units on.
X axis added!
Tool head added to X axis and belts routed for XY control.
Once again the threaded insert being too long caused an issue. I had to file it down to assemble the extruder properly.
Extruder and it’s electronics added.
Gantry mounted on the frame. I used long zip ties to hold the gantry up while I routed the Z belts and tightened them on. The Z drives now hold the gantry in place.
Silicone heater attached to the build plate. RTV around the edges to provide a heat tolerant seal and extra layer of protection in case the 3M glue fails.
The thermal fuse provides an extra layer or protection against circuit failure. It breaks the connection of the heater to power if it reaches a threshold temperature of 125c.
All wired up and ground wire added.
Spacing the extrusions for the print bed to attach.
My own design. A 3D printed spacer tool to align the bed rails to the frame perfectly.
Print bed mounted! Now to start the wiring.
Mains wired up.
A little bit of cable management. I wanted to use wire tracks but they were slightly too big.
Power wired to the main electronics. Tested the power and no magic smoke! On to component wiring.
All wiring complete and component wiring labelled. My little dymo label printer was perfect for this.
First power test of all components. Everything came up properly.
Tensioned the belts and added the skirts and side panels.
Extrusion tests after cleaning out the filament path.
Printer in it’s permanent home next to my Prusa i3 MK3S+
Now for performance tweaking starting with my home made input shaper tool to measure resonance.
High speed print testing.

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